Foire aux questions
Everything you need to know about SUPERUS products, materials, customization and project cooperation.
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Find answers to frequently asked questions about our products, customization solutions and overseas projects.
All FAQs
100 questions
01What is the difference between solid wood, engineered wood and WPC interior doors?
Solid wood doors use natural timber (oak, ash, walnut) and give the richest grain, but they move most with humidity. Engineered doors bond a stable core (LVL, finger-joint or solid-core board) with veneer or laminate, so they resist warping far better. WPC (wood-plastic composite) is fully waterproof, termite-proof and needs almost no maintenance, which is why it now dominates bathrooms, kitchens and tropical projects.
Pending fact review
02Do solid wood doors warp or swell in humid tropical climates?
Any timber absorbs moisture, so a door can cup, swell or bind when indoor relative humidity swings. The risk is controlled three ways: kiln-drying to 8–12% moisture content, balanced construction (equal veneer or laminate on both faces, engineered core), and complete six-sided sealing. For coastal and tropical projects we recommend engineered or WPC cores, or solid wood with full edge sealing and a stable 40–60% indoor RH.
Pending fact review
03What is a solid core door, and is it worth the extra cost?
A solid core door replaces the hollow honeycomb cavity with a dense engineered core, so it weighs far more, blocks noticeably more sound, resists dents and closes with a substantial feel. For bedrooms, bathrooms and home offices the upgrade usually pays back in comfort and resale appeal. For closets, pantries and low-traffic storage, a hollow core remains a sensible saving.
Pending fact review
04Hollow core or solid core: which should I choose for a bedroom?
Choose solid core. A hollow core door is light and cheap but transmits conversation almost unchanged, while a solid core door typically adds meaningful sound reduction and privacy. If the room is a nursery, home office or shares a wall with a living area, solid core plus a perimeter seal and a drop-down door bottom is the standard recommendation.
Pending fact review
05Which interior door material is best for bathrooms and other wet areas?
For bathrooms, laundries and wet kitchens, use WPC, PVC or a properly sealed moisture-resistant engineered core — never raw MDF or unsealed particleboard. Look for a fully wrapped or sealed six-sided finish, a waterproof edge band, and stainless or coated hardware. Ventilation still matters: even waterproof doors last longer when the room is not permanently at 90% RH.
Pending fact review
06Are WPC doors really waterproof and termite-proof?
WPC doors are extruded from wood fibre and polymer resin, so they do not absorb water, do not swell, and offer no food source for termites — a real advantage in termite-prone tropical markets. They are not indestructible: prolonged UV exposure and poor hardware can still age the surface. For bedrooms and wet areas in Southeast Asia and the Gulf, WPC is now a mainstream specification rather than a compromise.
Pending fact review
07What is an MDF or HDF door skin, and when is it used?
MDF and HDF door skins are thin, dense fibreboard facings moulded or routed into panel profiles and then bonded to a core frame. They give a perfectly smooth, paintable surface with no grain telegraphing, which is why they are the default for painted flush and moulded doors. They must be sealed on all six sides; unsealed MDF edges are the most common cause of swelling complaints.
Pending fact review
08Veneer, laminate or painted finish — which lasts longest on an interior door?
Factory-applied paint (lacquer/PU) gives the most uniform colour and is easiest to touch up, but shows scratches. Wood veneer offers real grain and can be refinished, though it needs UV-stable topcoat in sunny rooms. High-pressure laminate and PET are the most scratch- and moisture-resistant for rentals, hotels and high-traffic family homes. Match the finish to traffic, not just to the sample board.
Pending fact review
09What is the difference between a stile-and-rail door and a moulded panel door?
A stile-and-rail door is built from solid vertical stiles and horizontal rails around a floating panel — the traditional method, heavier, repairable and preferred for heritage or classical interiors. A moulded door is a pressed skin over an engineered frame: lighter, cheaper, and dimensionally more stable. Both are legitimate; the choice is usually driven by design language and budget rather than by durability alone.
Pending fact review
10Which wood species is best for interior doors: oak, ash, walnut, teak or birch?
Oak is the safest all-rounder for stability and grain; ash gives a pale, linear Scandinavian look; walnut is a premium feature species with strong tonal variation; teak is the traditional choice for humid and coastal regions; birch and engineered birch veneers give a light, uniform, cost-stable surface. In practice, construction and sealing matter more than species — an unbalanced panel in any species will still bow.
Pending fact review
11What is the standard interior door size in the US, and can you supply it?
The US standard is 80 in (2032 mm) high, with widths of 24, 28, 30, 32 and 36 in, and 1-3/8 in thickness for interior doors. We manufacture to imperial sizes directly, including pre-hung units, so you do not need to convert from metric on site. Taller 84 in and 96 in doors are available for high-ceiling homes and are increasingly specified in new construction.
Pending fact review
12Can you make doors in non-standard heights, such as 2.4 m or 2.7 m?
Yes. Oversized and floor-to-ceiling doors up to [max height] mm are produced regularly for villas, penthouses and hotel lobbies. Tall doors need a stiffer core, a third or fourth hinge, and usually a door straightener or reinforced stile to prevent bowing. Share your ceiling height and opening width and we will advise whether a single leaf or a transom solution is safer.
Pending fact review
13What is the standard interior door size in Russia and Europe?
In Russia the common interior door leaf is 2000 mm high, with 600, 700, 800 and 900 mm widths, and 400 mm or 800 mm bathroom formats; 2100 mm is also widely used. European practice centres on 1985 × 610/735/860 mm. We produce both metric standards and will match your existing opening exactly — important in older buildings where settling has made openings non-square.
Pending fact review
14How do I measure my door opening correctly before ordering?
Take three width readings (top, middle, bottom) and three height readings (left, centre, right) and use the smallest of each. Measure wall thickness for the jamb depth, and check the floor is level. If you are replacing a slab only, measure the existing leaf itself — width, height and thickness — not the opening. Photograph the hinge side and swing direction; this prevents most ordering errors.
Pending fact review
15Should I order a pre-hung door unit or a door slab only?
A pre-hung unit arrives with the leaf, jamb, casing and hinge prep already squared and fitted — faster to install and the safer choice for new openings or renovation. A slab-only order is cheaper and works when your existing frame is sound and square. For retrofit in older buildings, slabs usually make more sense; for new construction and container projects, pre-hung reduces site labour and callbacks.
Pending fact review
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